There are few things more humbling than standing three feet from a 200-kilo silverback gorilla, who could tear your limbs off but instead chooses to yawn, scratch his belly, and give you a look that says, Honestly, Nicole, I’ve seen better rain ponchos.
The top places to see gorillas in the wild
And yet, here we are, armed with walking poles, a sense of adventure, and at least six snacks we promised ourselves we wouldn’t eat before 10am on a jungle trail in East Africa, where the foliage is dense, the air is thick, and the gorillas? Sublime.
So, where should you go to meet these hairy vegetarians in the wild? If you’re looking for Jane Goodall vibes with a twist of luxury and a splash of mud, let me point you in the right direction.
Uganda: Affordable, Authentic, and Slightly More “Adventure”
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
Yes, it’s actually called Impenetrable, which feels like a dare if you ask me. Bwindi is where the majority of Uganda’s mountain gorillas hang out, presumably because they like the views, the moss, and the sheer number of clueless tourists who fall over roots and gasp audibly every time a monkey farts in the distance.
The treks here vary wildly. You might meet gorillas in an hour, or six. Bring sturdy boots and a robust sense of humour. It’s less “luxury lodge” and more “rustic charm,” but if you’re into genuine, soulful travel moments with bragging rights that don’t involve infinity pools, this is your place.
Mgahinga Gorilla National Park
Smaller, quirkier, and overlooked like the middle child of Uganda’s parks, Mgahinga has one habituated gorilla group and golden monkeys, who, are show-offs. The scenery is volcanic and photogenic and may inspire you to take up hiking (or at least buy a hiking outfit and pose with a latte in it)
Where to Stay if You Like Luxury With Your Leech Socks:
Sanctuary Gorilla Forest Camp Smack in the middle of the forest, this intimate camp has eight dreamy tents, where you can sip wine on your private deck while actual gorillas pass by. Honestly. Gorillas. Near your tent.
Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge Set high on a ridge with views that look like they’ve been photoshopped by angels. Big stone cottages, roaring fireplaces, and locally carved furniture. Very “colonial-chic meets ethical eco-luxury.”
Nkuringo Bwindi Gorilla Lodge Stylish and serene, this lodge has everything from garden cottages to family villas. It’s the kind of place where even the towels feel smug about their thread count.
Buhoma Lodge One of the few located inside Bwindi itself. It’s rustic-luxe and right at the heart of the action. You could practically high-five a gorilla from your breakfast table (don’t though, they’re not big on small talk).
Rwanda: Chic, Organised, and Just a Bit Extra
Volcanoes National Park
Now, if Uganda is the charming backpacker with stories to tell and a bit of mud on her boots, Rwanda is the elegant older sister who wears linen effortlessly and probably has matching luggage.
Trekking in Volcanoes National Park is polished, well-organised, and, dare I say it, utterly fabulous. The treks tend to be shorter (though no one promises you won’t be climbing a mountain in the mist), and the lodges range from “ooh, fancy” to “does this place have its own champagne butler?”
It’s more expensive, yes, but also closer to Kigali’s airport, meaning you can be face-to-face with a gorilla before your jet lag has even kicked in.
Where to Stay if You Want to Trek by Day and Soak in a Plunge Pool by Night:
Bisate Lodge Six thatched forest villas set inside an eroded volcanic cone. A little bit hobbiton, a little bit haute couture. It’s luxury with a conservation conscience, and they’ll even let you plant a tree before breakfast.
Singita Kwitonda Lodge Think heated plunge pools, indoor-outdoor fireplaces, and a conservation room that makes you feel both pampered and principled. There’s even an organic garden, just in case your soul needed a salad.
One&Only Gorilla’s Nest Equal parts jungle dreamscape and pampered indulgence. Impeccable service, immersive experiences, and possibly the best bath you’ll ever have in a eucalyptus forest.
And Then There’s the DRC
Technically, yes, you can go gorilla trekking in the Democratic Republic of Congo. But unless your idea of fun involves armed guards, political unrest, and unpredictable logistics, perhaps save this one for when things settle down. Or for when you’re filming a documentary narrated by Sir David Attenborough.
The Best Time to Go
Dry season is your best friend here, June to September, and December to February. The trails are less muddy, the gorillas are still doing their thing, and your camera won’t fog up quite as much. But really, gorilla trekking happens year-round, so if you don’t mind a bit of drizzle and the odd soggy sock, you’ll be just fine.
A Few Final Tips for Wannabe Primatologists:
Permits are required. Uganda’s cost about $700. Rwanda’s? $1,500. Yes, that’s USD. Try not to faint.
Porters are worth their weight in gold and will carry your bag, hold your hand, and possibly catch you mid-stumble. Tip them well.
Fitness level? Moderate. Though one woman in our group smoked a cigarette at the summit and still made it down first, so don’t let Instagram fool you into thinking you need abs.
Gorilla etiquette: No flash photography, no touching, and absolutely no sneezing on a silverback. Seems fair.
So, whether you’re after a rugged trek through Uganda’s emerald chaos or a smooth, safari-chic glide through Rwanda’s manicured slopes, seeing gorillas in the wild is life-changing.
Not just because they’re majestic and rare, but because there’s something quietly earth-shifting about looking into the eyes of a creature that is so much like us, only hairier, wiser, and far less neurotic about packing cubes.
And when you go, tell Charles (the silverback) that Nicole says hi.
