Wineries in Orange, NSW
Grape Expectations: The Enchantment of Rowlee Wines
A serpentine driveway, lined with the wintery skeletons of dormant grapevines, stretches languidly toward a carpark fit for twenty or so chariots, nestled beside a brooding edifice of tin and shadow. Barrels stand sentinel upon a wooden balcony, like wardens guarding the secrets within. Here, one finds an adult’s wonderland, a whimsical retreat where the saccharine delights of a childhood chocolatier’s domain are transmuted into the deep, ruby allure of Sangiovese and the pale, golden murmurs of Pinot Gris. Yet, this is not the terminus of my journey. Not yet. I meander further down the gravel path, past the siren call of the restaurant, until I reach a towering hedge.
Rowlee wines accommodation
Through the verdant gap, I glimpse my refuge for the evening—a 19th-century homestead, resplendent with a wide verandah that wraps around like an embrace. French doors beckon, leading into a plush sanctuary adorned with a fireplace that breathes warmth into the room. The kitchen, a place of culinary potential, stands ready, while a sumptuous velvet couch invites languid repose.
Beyond, a separate bedroom and a bathroom with a full-length bath and heated floors promise indulgence and tranquility.
Every corner of this place shows a thoughtful elegance from the 1200 thread-count Egyptian cotton, a tactile poem against your skin, with feather pillows that cradle your head as if the clouds themselves had been plucked from the sky for your rest through to the larder. This treasure chest of delights, is stocked with the bounty of the earth, including a bottle of Rowlee wine. Among the offerings, the bread stands out—a humble masterpiece, its crust a golden armour, its heart soft and warm, the kind of bread that could very well tempt you to stay just for another taste.
Fresh lemons from the tree to take home
Outside, the world continues with a lemon tree that overlooks a croquet court. In the distance, black and white cows dot the horizon like a pastoral painting come to life. And if you’re lucky, you might catch a glimpse of the eastern rosella, its feathers a vibrant palette of fluorescent greens, flitting through the air like a living jewel.
This journey is tinged with the essence of royalty, from the embroidered monogram Ralph Lauren cushion to the very name of the town—Orange—a nod to William of Orange, whose name lingers like a ghostly crown.
Royalty at Rowlee Wines
The regal undertones persist at Rowlee Wines, where the father of James Manny, the co-owner, once cooked for King Farouk. Though the menu may not boast Filets of Branzin from the Mediterranean Sea, glazed with aspic jelly and adorned with cucumbers stuffed with smoked-salmon mousse, it offers delights only a royal chef’s progeny could conceive.
Consider the Orchard gelato, infused with fennel and olive oil, crafted from quinces plucked from the winery garden. Or the Cheddar custard, paired with burnt leek and potato, dissolving on the tongue like a blissful reverie. The carrots, served with tart cream and local nuts, tempt decorum itself, making restraint a Herculean task. Note—I refrained from licking the plate, though the urge was nearly overwhelming.
James regales me with tales of his youth, where his father would challenge him to discern the secrets of dishes and recreate them. This talent for tasting led him into winemaking. My favourite of his current batch is the single vineyard Pinot Gris, a liquid sonnet, its essence distilled from oak’s embrace with a scent a delicate embroidery of nashi pear, apple, and the sunlit hints of stone fruits.
Devotion to the vineyards are seen in Rowlee Wines
Rowlee’s magic is no ordinary spell—it is a dedication, a devotion to the vineyard where the vines sing under the kiss of high altitudes. Each grape—Arneis, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Nebbiolo, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc. Nestled at 950 meters above the world’s worries, in the foothills of Mount Canobolas, the vineyard draws its power from deep within the earth—clay loam of red and brown, birthed from basalt’s ancient womb. This fertile ground, rich in minerals and dreams, cradles the vines, urging forth grapes that are nothing short of miraculous.
Rowlee’s tale is a saga of lineage and longing, of roots that stretch across seas to the sun-soaked coast of Croatia’s Adriatic, now entwined with Australia’s rich soil. Here, Nik and Deonne Samodol rekindled the ancient art of their forebears, planting it deep in the heart of the Orange Wine Region, where the spirit of the past meets the promise of the present.
To step into Rowlee is to enter a place of warmth and wonder, where the tasting house and the newly birthed Rowlee Dining & Bar offer sanctuary for the senses. The Winter Café Concerts invite guests to lose themselves in the wines, the flavours of the land, while the soft notes of jazz play through the evening. Within this cosy haven, long tables stretch like welcoming arms, beckoning conversation and connection, as Rowlee’s wines lead the palate on a journey through time and place, each glass a spellbinding tale.
